My First Three Days on the Portuguese Camino: Learning to Carry, Pause, and Feast
My first steps on the Camino Portuguese were filled with discovery—changing trails, tasting fresh local dishes, and soaking in the coastal beauty of northern Portugal. This blog post captures the rhythm of walking, the joy of pausing and taking it slow, and the flavors that made the journey all the more incredible. I’ll be sharing my route in three-day stages, so check back in and follow along as my Camino unfolds.
Arriving in Porto: A soft beginning before the miles unfold
So I arrived in Porto a couple of days ago and spent some time adjusting to the heat, soaking up the sun, and easing into the trip. I stayed in a stylish guest house called the Rosario Suites Townhouse, located in the Cedofeita neighborhood. I love this area of the city; each winding street seems to unfold into another surprise, whether it’s a cozy café spilling onto the pavement, —a tiny shop brimming with handmade treasures, or the inviting scent of something delicious cooking just around the corner.
I stopped by BICHO Café and bakery to tidy up my plans and sketch out an itinerary for the days ahead. While I was there, I asked the waitress for her recommendations on the best spots to grab dinner later. She kindly wrote me a list—I absolutely love a list. I’ve included it here, incase you find yourself staying a couple of nights in Porto you’ll have a few places to try out for dinner!
Day One: Porto to Matosinhos — 11 km (7 miles)
After a night stay and a slow morning in Porto I set off just after noon, it was ideal weather which was unexpected— slightly overcast with a gentle breeze, which felt like a rare gift for Porto in the middle of July. I knew today would be a short walk, only around 11 km, so I let myself enjoy a slower morning before starting out.
The route from Porto to Matosinhos is straightforward. You leave the city walking alongside the Douro River, and the coastal path on the Portuguese Camino makes this stretch especially easy compared to the Central Route. Many pilgrims start out along the coast, either because they haven’t quite decided which path to follow long-term, or to avoid the first, more industrial section of the Central route. From here, it’s just a matter of following the boardwalks that lead you all the way to the Atlantic.
About 20 to 30 minutes after leaving Porto’s cathedral, you’ll come across Rua do Ouro, a charming riverside stretch with an authentic, lived-in feel. If you’re a fan of fresh fish, I’d strongly recommend making a pit stop here. Locals set up barbecues right along the street, grilling sardines and other delights — perfect for a casual, delicious, and truly local lunch. It’s a lovely way to ease into the Camino rhythm and treat yourself to some regional delicacies before continuing on toward Matosinhos. Unfortunately, I’d already eaten in Porto, but if I were to do it again, I’d definitely hold off and eat here.
I arrived in Matosinhos in the late afternoon, grateful for the shorter, slightly slower day that gave me time to adjust to the heat. This historic fishing town just north of Porto is known for its rich maritime traditions and vibrant fish market, which is well worth a visit. With wide sandy beaches, a lively waterfront, and a buzzing surf culture, Matosinhos offers plenty of excellent seafood restaurants and a laid-back atmosphere — a great first stop to relax and soak up authentic Portuguese coastal life after your walk.
Day Two: Matosinhos to Vila Do Condo — 20/22 km (12/13.5 miles)
On day two, I set off early, leaving Matosinhos around 7:00 in the morning. On longer days, it’s important to start early to avoid walking too long under the heat of the afternoon sun. Obviously if you are walking in the cooler months this isnt something you should worry about too much. The trail from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde winds first through some industrial areas before opening up into long stretches of coastline and passing through quaint fishing villages. The sea breeze along the coastal path is a welcomed gift on a day like today, making the rising heat much easier to walk in.
One of my favorite spots I passed through was Vila Chã, a peaceful coastal village just north of Vila do Conde. Known for its quiet beaches and laid-back atmosphere, it’s a place where the Atlantic breeze carries the scent of the sea and life moves at a slower pace. With its traditional Portuguese houses, narrow streets, and wide stretches of golden sand, Vila Chã is a perfect spot to pause, take a breath, grab a coffee or eat the catch of the day and take in the sea views.
When I finally arrived in Vila do Conde, I checked into the municipal albergue. While organising my things for the next day, I realised the albergue overlooks the market square, which was pulsing with life — it was Friday, and an epic market was underway. Mostly stalls of food, cheeses, fruit, and vegetables, but also clothes and shoes. It was a treat to wander through. Afterwards, I found a little café nearby where I enjoyed a coffee, rested my feet, and started making plans for dinner. Earlier, just before crossing the bridge into Vila do Conde at Azurara, I’d passed a small restaurant called Villazur. I’d had a good feeling about it, so later I went back, enjoyed a couple of small plates and a beautiful glass of local white wine, and called it a day.
Day Three: Vila Do Condo to Pedra Furada — 22 km (13.5 miles)
On Saturday morning, before leaving Vila do Conde, I woke without a firm plan. I hadn’t yet decided whether to continue along the coastal route or head inland to complete the rest of my Camino on the central way. The uncertainty left me feeling unsettled and a little frustrated. Thankfully, there was no rush — I didn’t have to check out of the albergue until 9:00, so I allowed myself to slow down. I wandered up to see the Mosteiro de Santa Clara, which offered beautiful views across the town, bathed in the soft glow of sunrise. From there, I meandered through quiet streets as Vila do Conde gently started to wake — shopkeepers lifting their shutters, locals stepping out for their morning routines, and a small market beginning to set up in the square beside the albergue.
Even after my walk, my mind was still circling the decision. So I gathered my things, found a local café, ordered a pastry and a macchiato, and settled in to finally think it through. I’m sharing this process because I want to encourage you: sometimes it’s important to pause, check in with yourself, and be honest about how you’re really feeling on the Camino. I found it took me the first couple of days just to adjust my mindset — to slow down and embrace a different pace. It’s so unlike the way we usually rush through our daily routines back home, and you have to be careful not to simply follow the crowd but really listen to what your body and mind are telling you.
After taking a moment to finally decide to change course and head inland to connect with the central way, I realized I wasn’t quite sure how to get there or where the path began. Up until then, I hadn’t relied heavily on any specific app or guide. I’d downloaded a range of Camino apps in the past and was familiar with some websites for finding albergues. That morning, I did a bit more research and downloaded the Wise Pilgrim app, which helped me figure out how to transition onto the central route. I also checked out Gronze, a really useful website for finding albergues and accommodation linked to each Camino route.
Once I finally made up my mind, it was roughly 9:30 when I set off. I walked through long stretches of industrial areas before the trail gradually opened up into beautiful rural villages. I arrived in Pedra Furada late that afternoon and stayed at O Palhuço, a lovely albergue — crisp and clean, set in an old church that’s been beautifully renovated. It overlooks vineyards and rolling countryside as far as the eye can see.
In Pedra Furada, there are a couple of small supermarkets, cafés, and an ATM up the road if you’d rather cook dinner at the albergue, but I chose to have the pilgrims’ menu at Antonio’s Bar instead. Antonio himself was a charming man who proudly shared the history of his bar and restaurant, which goes back a couple of generations — his mother was the original cook. Talking with Antonio, it was clear he had a story or two to tell. I often think about how people who live and work along the Camino must meet travellers from every walk of life, collecting little pieces of so many journeys; it must be deeply enriching. I opted for the pilgrims’ menu paired with a beautiful glass of white wine typical of the region, called Cooperativa de Barcelos – Terras do Condado Bruto Branco. Its clean, crisp finish reflects the coastal influence of the area, making it a lovely example of northern Portuguese whites. I’m no wine connoisseur, but it was absolutely delicious!
After dinner, with the sun slipping low in the sky, I settled my bill. As I stepped out, Antonio — knowing I was from Belfast — called after me to say he was a big fan of Van Morrison. I smiled, lifted a hand in farewell, and wandered down the hill. Soft golden light stretched over the surrounding vineyards, and the unease of the morning felt far away - it felt like a very good day.
